My $3.00 Chalk Paint Project

So I was reading this great article by Sherry at No Minimalist Here last week about making your own chalk paint.  I thought it would be fun to give it a try, so I looked for a victim in my garage.  This cute little writing desk has been asking me for a makeover for a while and I've been ignoring her request.  Well, last week Elaine was on vacation and I was having a little bit of a hard time moving furniture around on my own, so I had to stick with items that were light weight.  So she finally got some attention.

I guess the reason I had been ignoring it for so long was that I couldn't exactly figure out what to do with it.  I originally had planned to keep it two-tone, but instead it kind of evolved into multi-tone.

I used the Plaster of Paris Method, which was $6.00 at Michael's and $3.00 with my 50% off coupon.  I took some celery green paint (left over from Elaine's living room) and some true blue acrylic and mixed it to make a greenish/blue color.

The paint gets thicker the more plaster of paris that you use.  My first layer was a yellow mixed in a little thicker.  This way I avoided priming.  Then I used another layer mixed a little thinner with the green-blue that I made.  The third layer was dark stain.  I then went back through and highlighted some of the colors.

I love the paper on the inside of the drawers

All in all I'm pretty sold on this plaster of paris paint idea, especially on these shabby/ paris apartment chic projects.

What kinds of paint techniques do you love?

xo,

mONICa

Dress Up A Corner Window With A Wood Cornice Valance

Ok so I've finished my stencil wall and now I am on to dressing up the windows. I've decided to make a corner cornice to frame the window. This is how I did it .

TOOLS NEEDED- Saw-Long level-Measuring tape- Drill- Hammer-Putty &putty knife-Sandpaper-L-brackets. ( I used two types, wider ones for the structure of the cornice  and a narrower type for wall backers)Primer-Paint-Nails-Screws.

(some tools needed are shown below)



Now for the construction.

First I measured the window length and depth I wanted on each wall. Next, I purchased inexpensive pine wood boards, you will need one board for the face/front and one for the top of each cornice. I used a 1x8 for the face and a 1x6 for the top and for the sides I used left over 1x8's. so when you purchase your boards don't forget you need extra for two side boards, each cornice has one side board.

HELPFUL HINT-( although it says its a 1x6 or a 1x8 in actuality it really measures a 1/2 inch shorter. so don't get worried if you come home and measure…I don't know why they do that but it's important to know when you are doing a project that needs cutting etc, I just thought i'd let you know about this. I learned about that the hard way ;()

I used pine wood that has knots.I puttied the knots so that they don't show through after painting. I then sanded the dry putty areas and the rough cut edges. I next primed and painted the boards. I did this step after the cornice was assembled but before I put it up on my wall, however you can do this before assembling if you like.

Now onto the work

Ok, my cornice is cornered so, my top 1x6 board on the biggest window measured all the way from the one side of one window to the wall at the other end, however since the face part of the board was going to bud up to the cornered of the other/second cornice it would need to be shorter than the top board that go's all the way to the wall. This measurement size is the width of the top board of the second cornice, just subtract that width from the length you made for your top board on your first cornice and cut your face board length that size. (-see picture # 4)

Ok now you should have two boards the top longer board and the slightly shorter face board.

Now you need to connect the top board to the face board. I used L- brackets to do this. I made pilot holes first with my drill then I screwed in the backers to connected the top board to the bottom. I connected the side boards the same way. I also put small nails along the edges of the cornice where the two board connect in order to add strength. ( keep in mind that you will also be using L-brackets to connect the entire cornice to the wall. I placed these brackets on each side of the window because there are wood studs in the wall there to screw your brackets to. This way your cornice will be very secure. Don't screw any other bracket in this spot of your cornice, reserve it for your wall brackets.





Next measure out the cornice of your other /second window. This cornice top and face will butt onto your first cornice and not to the wall corner, so once again the top board and the face board will be different lengths. Proceed as with the first cornice.



Now that both cornice's are made you can  connect the two cornice's together by bracing only the two face boards of each cornice's where they meet with an L-brace on the inside unseen part of the corner.

Next you will screw the wall braces to the wall at whatever height you want your cornices to be. I suggest placing one bracket  on each side of the window. You can add more if your window is extra wide. Make sure you are screwing into wood. Usually each side of the window has wood studs there.(if you're not screwing into wood use the appropriate anchors for strength. When placing your braces use a long level to make sure all are level to each other.

Now that your braces are on the wall have someone help you lift the cornice up and place it on top of the wall brackets. Next screw in the cornice to the brackets from underneath the cornice.

Thats it! and it's even simpler when doing straight windows that are not cornered.

This room is a work in progress. I will be sharing the completed window treatment once the curtains go up...I have't decide how I want to go with that yet.

xo,

eLAINe

Jazz up a wall with a Geometric Stencil

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I totally love all the wallpaper designs hitting the racks these days, but who wants to wallpaper?  I know I don't.  I really needed something to add some pizzazz to my fireplace wall, so instead of just painting it a different color I decided to do a graphic mid-century stencil to give it the illusion of high-end wallpaper and I didn't even have to change the base color.   I left the wall the same celery green color and did an el cheapo, el matcho accent color with the same paint I used on the trim and mantle.  I needed to do this baby quick so I committed the stencilers unforgivable sin, yep, I used a roller! I know that isn't the "proper" way to do it,  but I am not always proper! Anyhow, I love it! It gave the room such a cool vibe! I totally recommend you give it a try if you need to add something special to a room. It is a bit challenging but if you have any patience at all you'll do just fine.

What you will need is: Blue tape,light hold spray adhesive... I purchased mine at a nearby fabric store for $6 bucks. You will also need a long level, and of course your paint and stencil brush.If you want a translucent look you will need to thin your paint with a glaze medium. I used an even part paint & glaze. Also if you need longer working time the glaze keeps the paint wet longer. I have also heard of some people using water to thin a water base paint but I have never done it that way...YET. Ok now to the work!

First off decide where is the best area to place your first stencil. Some people like to start dead center and work out and away, but for my project, I simply started in a top corner and worked down and to the right. Now that you've figured out your starting point, you can begin.

1 -spray the back of your stencil with the spray adhesive.

2- place the stencil on the starting point use your level to make sure your stencil is straight. Now tape the corner edges to the wall and gently push the stencil to the wall (this will help to keep the paint from bleeding in between the cut outs).  3-Once stencil is secure to the wall, you can begin painting. I used a roller for this project but you will get a nicer finish if you use a stencil brush a round flat blunt brush. Ok now dip your brush in the paint and then dab most of it off onto a paper towel. In a circular motion begin applying the paint to the stencil with the heavier paint on the outline and thinner application toward the center of each cut out . Continue until all cut outs have been painted.

4 -Allow stencil to dry about 5 -15min or more depending on the weather and if and how much glaze you used. Carefully remove stencil from wall without smearing the paint. Now if  the paint on wall and on the stencil is dry , move on to the next area always using your level to make sure it is straight. Stenciling around an opening like a window can be a bit challenging so you have to be patient, this can be done a lot easier if you cut the stencil to work around the opening...just make sure you've completed all the wall areas that you need the stencil in one whole piece before cutting up your stencil. I am way too cheap to cut up a stencil that I plan on using again and again so I very carefully bent the stencil to get around my window.

Also, I recommend getting a stencil with a separate edge stencil that allows the pattern to continue off the wall-you can do this as you work through the wall or go back at the end after you've painted the main sections , that's what I did.
Helpful Hint-have wet paper towels around just in case you have to wipe off an area that you did an oops! Works like a charm. Ok, that's it! Have fun!!!  this room is a work in progress. I am now working on window treatments and cleverly hiding ugly tv cords... can't wait to show you the finished product!

This stencil came from Royal Design Studio. I learned about it from Mandi at Vintage Revivals and if you visit her page you can get a coupon code to get yourself a little discount.

xo,

eLAINe

Trash to Treasured Wedding Gift

I'm so sorry.  I totally missed show off Sundays this week.  I've been packing all weekend and just have the basement left.  After packing comes organizing for Saturdays garage sale.

I thought I'd share this dresser that I did for a friend's wedding exactly a month ago today.  Her then fiance found this baby in the TRASH.  Most of the drawers were broken and the paint was pretty badly stained.  When I heard the news of this rescued "first" dresser I thought that in addition to buying a traditional wedding gift I would fix up the dresser for the bride and groom as a housewarming gift. I have to admit I've never repaired broken drawers before, but I knew I was up to the task.  Plus it was a Broyhill Dresser, which I thought would be worth repairing.

Here is a glimpse of the broken drawers

I decided to prime the dresser first before I tackled the mess with the drawers.

I have to admit I didn't even own clamps. I found these amazing band clamps at Home Depot that wrapped around and adjusted to any size.  I glued the drawers together and wrapped them in these band clamps and let each of them sit for 24 hours.  Then off to primer.

I used a silver metallic spray paint by Valspar and covered the dresser with two coats, then I used wipe on poly to seal.  The bride got some amazing knobs at Hobby Lobby that finished off the look.  I love how it came out.

xo,

mONICa

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Another reason why I prime

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So a lot of us have come to know and love primer.  #1 reason to prime is to make your paint stick to the piece you are painting, but there is another reason I prime.

Have you ever though you prepped a piece really good only to find out there was a flaw lurking around the corner?  Well I have.  Just came across it again the other day while working on a piece.  I had sanded filled in all the holes and then came primer.  That's when it snuck up on me.



"AH HA!!!  ", I said.  "I got you."  Ok no, I really didn't say that, but I was thinking it.  This humungo crack was hiding behind a perfectly good finish.  So priming it gave me the perfect opportunity to fill it and sand it before paint.

So although priming is an extra step, it really does pay off in more than one way.

xo,

mONICa

 

Yellow Coffee Table

Oh boy,  I'm so glad this weekend is over.  My daughter was in a big wedding and I'm exhausted.  I did, however get the chance to work on this small coffee table last week.  Cute little ornate table that I picked up at a local estate sale site:

It wasn't in this best of shape, some wobbly legs and scuffs and stuff, but I took care of that with some clamps and some wood glue.  I primed and painted it with a warm yellow.  Then I started the distressing process.  I sanded the table at random points, mainly the edges and  I did what I call my sloppy wax on wax off stain technique.  Just slap some stain on and wipe it off.

If you wipe the stain off fast enough you don't need to use glaze.

I decided I wanted a contrasting color for the ornate area on the top, so I painted the center a navy blue color.

Ummm...HATED IT!!!

I did however, like mixed a little bit of blue onto the top to give it a distressed finish. I guess that means it wasn't a complete FAILURE.

Round two....silver metallic.

LOVE IT!!!

An antique piece with a smiley face : )

Don't forget to join us on SHOWOFF SUNDAYS to post projects that you have been working on.

xo,

mONICa

Storage Bench- Before and After

Hope everyone had a wonderful weekend.  Thought I'd share this nifty little storage bench I picked up at an estate sale.  I looked and it and it reminded me of something my grandpa would've made.  It was calling my name and I had to take it home. This is what it looked like when I got it.

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First I patched up some of the small holes with wood filler.  Than I removed the top and the vinyl seat fabric.  Underneath was smelly original foam padding so I tore that out as well.  Next I primed it.

Then I painted it and started working on the top.  I didn't want to use $22.00 foam padding so I used  $6.00 carpet padding instead.  You can see how I did that here.  I used upholstery/ drapery fabric to cover the top.

And here is the final product.

I love it.  I'm almost inspired to use it as a pattern and make a banquette with similar construction.  I think that would be awesome.

xo,

mONICa

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